We supply and fit skylight and rooflight glazing in East End Road, from single roof windows to flat rooflights, lanterns and sun tunnels. This page is for homeowners who want more daylight in a loft, extension, kitchen or dark hall, and it covers the types, where to put them, the rules and how we price the work.
Light from above is stronger than light from a wall window of the same size. A well-placed skylight can make a dark room feel open and bright. Every job starts with a free survey of the roof and the room below, then a written, fixed quote. You can book a free survey whenever you are ready.
Skylights in East End Road: local know-how
- Typical homes: 1930s semis, Victorian terraces and flats, with some 1980s townhouses
- Planning: Parts of the area are covered by conservation area rules, so check with the council before changing windows on the front of a house. Building control is handled by Barnet Council.
The roof shape on each house decides which skylight will work. We look at the pitch, the roof covering and what is under it before we suggest a type. Roof work needs safe access, so we plan scaffold and parking well before fitting day.
Types of skylight we fit
There is a type of skylight for most roofs and rooms. Here are the main options.
- Pitched roof windows: Fit between the rafters of a sloping roof. Ideal for loft rooms. They can be top hung or centre pivot, so you can open them for air and clean them from inside.
- Flat rooflights: A flat, frameless-look pane on an upstand. They suit flat-roof kitchen and rear extensions.
- Roof lanterns: A raised glass roof with sloping sides. They add height and make a big room feel grand.
- Sun tunnels: A small dome on the roof and a mirror tube down to a ceiling diffuser. They bring daylight into halls, landings and bathrooms with no room for a full window.
- Walk-on rooflights: Strong glass panels that sit flush with a roof terrace or floor.
For our full range, see our main skylights page.
Which skylight suits local homes
Many homes in East End Road have a loft that could be a bedroom or office, or a rear extension with a flat roof. Each needs a different type.
Loft rooms in pitched roofs suit roof windows. We check the rafter spacing and the head height inside, so the window sits at a good height to look out of. Flat-roof extensions suit rooflights or lanterns. A lantern adds height and works best in a large kitchen or living space. A flat rooflight is lower and more discreet.
Dark halls and inner rooms are where sun tunnels shine. They need no big roof opening, and they fit in a day. In older homes with a slate or tile roof on the front, we may suggest placing the skylight on the rear slope, which helps with planning and keeps the front of the house as it is.
Where to place a skylight for the best light
Placement makes a big difference to how a skylight feels. A few simple rules help.
- Facing: North-facing roof glazing gives soft, even light all day. South-facing glazing gives more warmth, so solar control glass helps.
- Over the room you use: Put light over the kitchen worktop, the dining table or the desk, not over a corridor or a cupboard.
- Balance: Pair a skylight with wall windows so the light is spread through the room and does not glare.
- Height: In loft rooms, a roof window set low enough lets you see out as well as up.
Glass, heat loss and noise
Roof glass faces the sky, so it loses more heat than a wall window. Building Regulations set a limit of 2.2 W/m²K for new rooflights. Our standard units use low-E coated, argon-filled glass and beat that limit. For lofts and bedrooms, triple glazing keeps in more heat and cuts the sound of rain on the glass.
Inner panes are laminated, so if the glass is ever broken it holds together and does not fall into the room. Self-cleaning outer glass helps rain wash dirt away. Solar control coatings cut glare and stop rooms overheating in summer. For a period home where a new roof window is not allowed, secondary glazing on existing glazing can be a good way to cut heat loss without changing the look.
Planning permission and Building Regulations
Most skylights in a house count as permitted development. That means you do not need planning permission, as long as they meet a few rules:
- They do not stick out more than 150 mm from the roof slope.
- They are not higher than the highest part of the roof.
- Side-facing roof windows may need obscure glass and limited opening.
The rules are stricter in conservation areas, on listed buildings and on flats. Front roof slopes facing a road are often the main concern. We tell you on survey if your home is likely to need consent, and we can supply the details for an application.
Building Regulations always apply. Cutting a new opening in a roof can mean trimming rafters or joists, and lanterns may need a new beam. We check the structure and, where needed, get a structural engineer to sign off the design. All work is registered with FENSA or signed off by building control, and you get the paperwork when the job is done.
What drives the cost
We do not quote a set price before we see the roof, because the roof shapes the job. These are the main things that affect the cost:
- Type and size: A sun tunnel or small roof window costs less than a large lantern.
- Structure: New trimmers, upstands or beams add time and materials.
- Roof covering: Slate, tile and felt or rubber flat roofs each need different flashings and making good.
- Glass and extras: Triple glazing, solar control, electric opening, rain sensors and blinds all add cost.
- Access: Scaffold, parking and how far we carry the glass all play a part.
- Inside finish: Plastering, lining and decorating the reveal around the skylight.
Every item is listed in your written, fixed quote, so there are no surprises. Payment stages are set out in the quote too.
Fitting and upkeep
We check the roof, measure up and agree the design on survey. A roof window or sun tunnel is often fitted in a day. Lanterns and larger rooflights can take two or three days, plus time for the inside finish. We sheet the room below and keep dust to a minimum. Your skylight is covered by a 10-year guarantee.
Upkeep is simple. Clean the glass a few times a year, or less often if it is self-cleaning. Check flashings and the upstand after a storm. On opening windows, vacuum the vents and check the seals once a year. For more glazing in the area, see our page on double glazing in East End Road or our main double glazing service.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a skylight add value to a home?
A skylight can make a dark room feel bigger and brighter, and buyers notice that. It is most useful in loft rooms, where it can turn a dim space into a usable bedroom or office. A lantern can lift a kitchen extension. We cannot promise a set rise in value, but light, well-finished rooms help a home stand out when it goes on the market.
Will rain on the glass be noisy?
All glass makes some noise in heavy rain, but good units keep it low. Laminated inner panes and triple glazing both damp the sound. Some roof windows also have a fitted outer blind that softens the noise of rain. If the skylight is over a bedroom, we suggest a spec that keeps it quiet and talk you through the options on survey.
Can skylights open on their own?
Yes. Many roof windows and rooflights can be fitted with an electric motor and a remote control or wall switch. Rain sensors close the window when it starts to rain. Some systems link to a smart home hub. Electric blinds and shutters are also an option. These features add to the cost, so we price them as separate lines in the quote.
Can you put a skylight over a room with a flat ceiling?
Yes, if there is a loft space above. A sun tunnel is the simplest answer. It runs a tube from the roof to the ceiling with no big building work. For more light, we can build a lined light shaft from a roof window down to a ceiling opening. We check the loft on survey to see which option fits.
What guarantee comes with a new skylight?
Your skylight and our fitting are covered by a 10-year guarantee. The maker also gives a separate warranty on the window, the glass and any motor. We give you all the paperwork when the job is done, along with your sign-off certificate. Keep it with your house documents, as a buyer's solicitor will ask for it.