This guide explains double glazing cost in Fortis Green for homeowners who want a fair idea of the budget before they book a survey. You will see our starting prices, what pushes a job up or down, and how we turn it all into one fixed quote.
We fit double glazing across East Finchley, and we know the homes in Fortis Green well. Prices below are starting points only. Your own price depends on the size of each opening, the frame you pick, the glass and how easy the house is to reach.
Every job gets a written, fixed quote after a free survey. You can ask for your quote here, and it will not change unless you change the order.
Double glazing prices in Fortis Green: what shapes them locally
- Typical homes: Victorian terraces and villas, with 1930s semis on the Ringwood Estate
- Postcodes we cover: N2
The type of house and the way we reach it both feed into your price. A home with easy parking and ground floor windows costs less to fit than a tall house on a busy road. We check both at the survey, so there are no surprises later. You can also see our other glazing work in Fortis Green.
Our Starting Prices in Fortis Green
These are the lowest prices for a standard job. They give you a floor, not a final figure. Most homes need a mix of sizes and styles, so your quote will list each item on its own line.
- uPVC window: from £400 fitted, for a standard size casement in white.
- Sash window: from £650 fitted, for a uPVC vertical slider made to look like a timber sash.
- Composite front door: from £1,200 fitted, with a solid core, multi-point lock and a standard glass design.
- Bifold doors: from £3,200 fitted, for a three-panel aluminium set.
- Conservatory: from £8,500 fitted, for a small lean-to on a simple base.
- Skylight: from £750 fitted, for a standard roof window in a pitched roof.
Each price covers the frame, the glass, removal of the old unit, fitting, sealing and making good around the opening. It also covers registration with FENSA and our 10-year guarantee. The full list for the town sits on our main double glazing prices page.
What Drives the Price of a Window
Five things shape the cost of almost every window we fit. Once you know them, a quote is much easier to read.
- Size. Bigger frames use more material and more glass. Very large panes may need two fitters and extra care on the day.
- Style. A plain casement window is the simplest and cheapest style to make. Sash, tilt and turn, and bay windows take more parts and more time.
- Frame material. uPVC costs the least. Aluminium and timber cost more but give slimmer lines or a classic look.
- Glass spec. Standard double glazing is the base. Triple glazing, acoustic glass, toughened or laminated glass all add to the price.
- Finish. White is the base. Wood-grain foils, grey and other colours add a little, and dual colour (one shade inside, one outside) adds a bit more.
Most of our window work in Fortis Green uses uPVC double glazing. It keeps heat in well, needs little care and gives the best value per window.
uPVC, Aluminium or Timber: Cost and Value
The frame you choose has the biggest single effect on your budget after size. Here is how the three main options compare.
uPVC
uPVC is the lowest cost frame. It does not rot or need painting, and a wipe with soapy water keeps it clean. Modern profiles have several inner chambers, so they hold heat well. It suits most homes, from flats to family semis.
Aluminium
Aluminium costs more per frame. In return you get thin sightlines, more glass and a sharp, modern look. It is very strong and very stable, which is why it suits wide doors and large panes. A thermal break inside the frame stops heat escaping through the metal.
Timber
Timber is often the most costly choice. It suits period homes and conservation areas, where the look of real wood matters. It needs a fresh coat of paint or stain every few years. In return it lasts a long time and can be repaired rather than replaced.
Glass Options That Change the Price
The glass is where a lot of the value sits. Better glass costs more, but it can make a room warmer, quieter or safer.
- Standard double glazing: two panes with a gas-filled gap and a soft coat on one pane. This meets Building Regulations and suits most rooms.
- Triple glazing: a third pane gives lower heat loss. Triple glazing is heavier, so it may need stronger hinges and a sturdier frame.
- Acoustic glass: thicker or laminated panes cut road and rail noise. It is worth it on busy roads.
- Safety glass: toughened or laminated glass is a must in doors and low windows. The rules set where it has to go.
- Obscure glass: patterned glass for bathrooms and front doors adds a small amount.
Under Part L of the Building Regulations, a new window in an existing home must reach a U-value of 1.4 W/m²K or better. Our standard units meet this. Triple glazing goes lower still, which helps in cold, exposed rooms.
Door, Conservatory and Skylight Costs
Doors and larger projects have their own price drivers.
Front doors. A composite door costs more than a uPVC one, but it is thicker, stronger and looks more like timber. Side panels, a top light, a smart lock or a bespoke colour all add to the price.
Bifold and sliding doors. The width of the opening and the number of panels drive the cost. If we need to widen the gap, a new lintel and some building work may be needed. We price that clearly at the survey.
Conservatories. The size, the roof type and the base are the main drivers. A solid or tiled roof costs more than glass or polycarbonate, but it keeps the room usable all year. Groundwork and drainage can add to the bill if the site slopes.
Skylights. The roof type matters most. A roof window in a pitched roof is the simplest job. A flat roof needs an upstand, and a roof lantern needs a solid frame. Scaffold and internal making good also count.
Fitting Issues That Add to the Cost
Some costs only show up once we see the house. We look for them at the survey, so they go into your fixed quote and not onto a later bill.
- Access: upper floor windows may need a tower or scaffold. Narrow side paths slow the work.
- Parking: if we cannot park close, we may need a permit or extra time to carry frames.
- Structure: a rotten sill, a weak lintel or a cracked brick reveal must be fixed before the new frame goes in.
- Making good: some old frames are set deep in plaster. Removing them can leave gaps that need filling and finishing.
- Odd shapes: arched tops, angled bays and very small or very large frames take more time to make.
We take care with every home and clear away all old frames and waste. The full process, from survey to aftercare, is set out on our how we work page.
How to Read and Compare Quotes
A good quote is clear, itemised and fixed. When you compare quotes, check these points:
- Each window and door is listed with its size, style, frame and glass.
- The quote says who removes the old frames and waste.
- Making good inside and out is included, not left out.
- The installer is registered with FENSA or Certass, so you get a compliance certificate.
- The guarantee is written down, and it says what it covers.
- Payment stages are set out in the quote, so you know what is due and when.
Be wary of a very low price with few details. It often leaves out glass specs, making good or waste removal. A clear quote may look higher at first, but it is often the better deal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does a quote differ from the starting price?
The starting price is for a standard size, a plain style and white uPVC with standard glass. Your quote reflects your real openings. Larger frames, extra opening sashes, colour finishes, upgraded glass and access needs all change the figure. We list each item on its own line, so you can see exactly where the cost comes from and drop or swap items if you wish.
Does the guarantee cover labour and the glass?
Yes. Our 10-year guarantee covers the frames, the sealed glass units, the hardware and our fitting work. If a sealed unit fails and mists up inside, we replace it. Damage from impact or misuse is not covered, but your home insurance may help with that. We give you the guarantee in writing when the job is signed off.
How long does a full replacement take?
Most homes take one to three days to fit, once the frames are made. A typical house with eight to ten windows takes about two days. Doors are often fitted in a single day. Making the frames takes a few weeks after the survey. We give you a fitting date once your order is placed and keep you posted.
Is planning permission needed for new windows?
Most like-for-like window swaps do not need planning permission. Things change if your home is listed, sits in a conservation area or has had its rights removed. In those cases you may need consent, and timber or slim frames may be required. We check this at the survey and tell you if the council needs to be involved.
Are there grants for energy saving windows?
Grants for windows come and go, and most current schemes focus on insulation and heat pumps. Some councils run local schemes for low income homes. It is worth checking with your council or the government energy advice service before you order. We do not run any grant schemes ourselves, but we can supply the paperwork a scheme may ask for.